easy DIY clutch repair 

So your clutch is on its way out or you feel its probably a good time to replace it? Below is a step by step guide on how to replace your own clutch. It wont take very long to do this yourself and is a relatively simple operation even the partially skilled can preform themselves. 

A good indication that your clutch is slipping is, during hard acceleration up hill. If when you whack open the throttle and the engine revs go up accordingly but you don't feel any additional pulling power, then chances are you clutch is on its way out.

The first step is to buy some new clutch plates, these are pretty easy to obtain and any dealer can supply you with a set of standard plates for around £30. While you are in there changing these it makes sense to replace your clutch springs too if you dont know the history of the engine. You will have various options for springs but the standard spring designed for say a SX200 engine with a standard four plate clutch should suffice for most engines even mildly tuned ones. You really only need to consider uprated stuff for high output engines such as TS1/RB and Imola etc. You will also need 500ml of SAE90 oil and a new chaincase gasket.

The only specialist tool required is a Lambretta clutch compressor. These are readily available from dealers for about £20 or you may be able to borrow one, as a lot of owners have these. The very first step is to pre soak the new clutch plates in engine oil over night.

Next, drain the existing oil from your engine. Its best to do this when the engine is warmed a little. To drain the oil, you simply undo the bottom drain plug. This is removed with a 10mm allen key and found just below the kick start.

The clutch cable will need to be popped out of the clutch arm for the chaincase to be removed. This can be easily be done with a spanner.

Next, remove the floorboard and chaincase cover nuts and washers and exhuast retaining nuts.

 

Once the chaincase is free, attach the compressor to the engine case studs and wind the handle clockwise to compress the clutch. You will now be able to remove the large circlip. Unwind the compressor. The old plates can now be removed along with the central pressure plate and springs.

As mentioned before it makes sense to replace the springs at this stage unless you know this has already been done recently. As they do lose there strength over time. Unless you engine is producing huge BHP then standard good quality springs will be fine for the likes of mild tuned 200cc engines and Mugello kits etc.

A blob of grease will help the new springs stay in place when you rebuild the clutch. Start the rebuild with a cork plate first, then a metal one and so on ending with the thicker metal top plate. Compress the clutch again and replace the circlip. It you feel the need to replace this circlip then Indian SIL ones are a good bet and you might as well if this is your first clutch change on this scooter. Finally use a screwdriver or small socket extender bar to seat the springs correctly.

After reasembly with a new lightly greased chaincase gasket, fill the engine with 500ml of good quality SA90 Oil.

SHOPPING LIST OF BITS NEEDED TO DO THIS

Clutch Compressor
New Clutch Plates
New Clutch Springs 
500ml SA90 Oil
Chaincase Gasket
Socket Set
10mm Allen Key

optional extras include
New SIL Clutch Circlip
New Clutch Nipple  (pre GP models) 

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